Identifying Edwardian Era Jewelry: A Guide
In the early 20th century, a distinct and captivating era of jewellery design emerged - the Edwardian period. Known for its delicate, light, and feminine motifs, Edwardian jewellery is a testament to the refined elegance and luxury of the time.
The design aesthetic of Edwardian jewellery is defined by lace-like patterns, garlands, bows, ribbons, floral elements, and nature-inspired motifs such as stylized flowers, leaves, butterflies, and moths. These motifs often convey romance and elegance through intricate openwork resembling lace, fine wirework filigree, and milgrain detailing (tiny beaded edges) to add sparkle and texture.
Platinum was the primary material used in Edwardian jewellery, enabling very fine, intricate craftsmanship and openwork designs. This metal's strength allowed for delicate, airy pieces that complemented the flowing garments of the period. White gold also saw use, especially in engagement rings, but platinum dominated high-end pieces.
Diamonds were central gemstones, frequently set to maximize brilliance in "white on white" compositions, often paired with pearls which were very popular for necklaces. Other precious stones such as sapphires, rubies, and emeralds were also incorporated, though diamonds and pearls remained signature.
Sautoirs, long bundles of pearl strands ending with tassels, were worn around necks, waists, bodices, and arms. Tiaras were a fascination during the Edwardian era, with bandeaus being versatile and able to function as necklaces or bracelets.
Advancements in diamond cutting technology during the Edwardian era led to more brilliant, rounder European-cut diamonds. Millegraining and fret work were defining methods of Edwardian jewellery, softening the look and emphasizing the diamond sparkle.
The beauty of a finished diamond became the focus, rather than the weight retention. Calibré cut stones, tiny (1-2mm), geometrically shaped ruby, sapphire, emerald, and amethyst, were cut to fit into channels and dance around designs. Long strands of 'spectacle set' diamonds were popular during the Edwardian era.
King Edward VII's reign (1901 to 1910) marked a shift in fashion, including jewellery, during the close of the 1800s. The demand for diamonds continued even during the Second Boer War (Oct 1899 - May 1902). Queen Alexandra was fond of the 'dog collar' plaque style necklace, often backed by black velvet.
Black enamel or onyx provided contrast to the all-white look as it transitioned from the mourning jewellery age. Platinum became popular in Edwardian jewellery due to its ability to strongly hold diamonds without staining skin and clothing.
However, after World War I, the flowing movement of Edwardian jewellery eventually blended into and was lost to the geometrical, static, anticlassical, architectural style of the Art Deco era. Nevertheless, the delicate elegance and romantic allure of Edwardian jewellery continue to captivate collectors and admirers today.
[1] The Edwardian Era: Jewelry
[2] Edwardian Jewelry
[3] Edwardian Jewelry
[1] From the realm of education-and-self-development, delve into the enchanting world of gemmology and learn about the allure of Edwardian Era jewelry.
[2] The lifestyle magazine 'Fashion-and-Beauty' showcases the timeless elegance of Edwardian jewelry, with its delicate lace-like patterns and intricate openwork resembling lace.
[3] Home-and-Garden enthusiasts can embellish their interiors with Publications featuring exquisite photographs of Edwardian jewelry, adding a touch of luxury and artistry to any space.
[4] General News articles highlight the historic demand for diamonds during the Edwardian era, despite periods of conflict, such as the Second Boer War.
[5] Sports fans may be surprised to discover the connection between Edwardian jewelry and the competitive world of fashion, as the elegance of Edwardian jewelry designs mirrored the grace and finesse of sports like horse racing or polo during that time.
